
Today is a pretty miserable day. Clouds all over, something wet falling from the sky. It’s the kind of weather people hope to stay indoors to, watching a movie or reading, or something warm and fuzzy like that. It’s kind of tempting I agree, but I remember an occasion when braving the weather led to an unforgettable moment.
Every January we try go diving somewhere, and usually we end up at Sodwana Bay. One year my brother and I were supposed to go to Mozambique but we only remembered that we needed passports once we had reached the border, so we turned around and ended up at Sodwana. It’s one of my favorite places in the world, because people go the beach to have fun, not flex their muscles and tan. I once counted 30 boats on the water, along with hundreds of 4×4′s lined up on the beach, people kite surfing, kayaking, snorkeling, fishing and playing in the ocean. People need to play, even when they’re 40 years old.
Our last diving trip at Sodwana was much of the same: Diving eating sleeping eating playing eating playing sleeping, in that order. But it also had some epic moments thrown in. One of them was when my brother proposed to his girlfriend at the bottom of the ocean, under a huge coral arch. She said yes. The other was an unforgettable encounter with a certain Chondrichthyes.
It started badly, with a day like today: Clouds and rain. The joke is always that you’re getting wet anyway, so who cares about the rain right? Wrong. That day we had picked a dive which included a 7 mile boat ride, which means you spend more than 1.5 hrs bumping around and hanging on for dear life, fighting nausea, enduring rain that stings like needles. We might as well have been on a Humvee bouncing around the Arabian desert taking bullets in the chest.
When you eventually get underwater, the clouds spoil the visibility and you only get to see the fins of the guy in front of you, not to mention the currents that buffet you against the coral, like a punching bag swinging on a rope. We saw nothing on that dive, at least nothing worth remembering. After shivering it out for 45min we eventually ran out of air and retreated back to the boat.
It’s usually about this time I feel sea-sick, and getting back onto a boat rocking in the rain was no comfort. Once moving the nausea started to subside and the trip became about surviving the bullet storm. Pretty miserable. That is, until the skipper suddenly cut the engines and peered into the water. He turned to us and said two words: “Whale Shark”. Those two words encapsulate diving Mecca, much like ‘Vatican’ and ‘Sistine chapel’ do to the Catholics.
My brother and I just gaped at each other, and dived into the gear box to get the snorkels and fins on. Without even waiting for a signal from the skipper we belly flopped into the water and started chasing him. They swim slowly, not more than 5km/hr, so we caught up quickly. I dived under and headed toward him, taking with me all the oxygen I could squeeze into my lungs.
It was the most beautiful sight I have ever seen. He moved so elegantly, especially for the largest living fish species. It’s not just the size that mesmerizes you, but the beautiful patterns painted on the skin. I became a fish myself under there, forgetting I needed air, just staring and swimming around him. As my vision started to blur and I realised I needed air again, I came up for a gulp, and headed back down, lungs exploding. It didn’t matter. It was too beautiful.
Eventually the lack of oxygen to my muscles meant he got away, and I returned to the boat. There’s not much to be said after an experience like that. Just get back on the cold boat, in the choppy ocean, under the rainy clouds.
I keep thinking what I would have missed out on if I let the weather get to me. I’d ride through a hailstorm to have that experience again.
Now I’m thinking, imagine if I had stayed in bed today, on this miserable morning, and missed the glorious events that surfaced. It may not have been a whale shark, but it sure beat lying on a couch.
It got me thinking that on another level, when times are tough and it’s raining bullets on our lives, we mentally stay in bed, and miss the glory of what could be going on right in front of us.
Or beneath us, beneath the cold feet in the rocking boat. The Whale Shark.
Don’t miss it.
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